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It’s important that you build the gate
prior to building the fence if you are planning on putting up an entirely new
fence installation. Your gate is the centrepiece of your fence, so it needs to
be well constructed, sturdy and reliable enough to operate properly for the
foreseeable future.
If you’re replacing an old gate then you
need to measure the exact size that you need. When buying your new gate, it’s
useful to have a tape measure with you as the measurements (both imperial and
metric) are not always accurate. Finally, consider the way you would like your
gate to open, with the vast majority of gates opening into a property rather
than out.

Installing a gate shouldn’t take too long
but it shouldn’t be rushed either. Light gates should have gateposts that are
around 100mm square and 600mm longer than the height of the gate itself. The
posts should also be thicker and around 750mm longer than the gate height but
you should always have a quick look at the specifications provided by the
manufacturer.
Post spikes won’t give enough support to
the wooden gateposts that you install, so instead you’ll need to apply some
preservative before setting them in concrete. If you can do so, try and find
some fittings that have been galvanised as this will prevent future rusting.
When screwing hinges to a gate, it’s quite
common to see some movement of the gate and this makes it difficult to position
them accurately. A good way around this issue is to make sure the posts are set
before you adjust them. You will therefore need to fit just two holding screws
per hinge while the post is lying flat. Before you fit the latch, wait until
you’ve attached the gate.

The
10 Steps to Securing Your Gate

Tip 1 – Cut a slant so that rainwater can
run off the top of the gate posts. Use a sliding bevel and mark an angle of
around 25 degrees from the top of the post.
Tip 2 – Saw along the line you have drawn
and paint the edge you have cut with a preservative. Untreated wood require s a
complete paint job for the whole post.
Tip 3 – Lay the gate face down the way you
would like it to open and place both posts either side 50mm higher than the top
of the gate. Use some timber to raise the gate ever so slightly and adjust this
with off-cuts.
Tip 4 – Make sure the hinges are in
position on the back of the gate and drill one pilot hole. Make sure the drill
bit isn’t too large and drill the remaining holes afterwards.
Tip 5 – Use galvanised screws to screw the
hinges in place and, if you are struggling to do this accurately, wait before
hanging the gate in place.
Tip 6 – The latch screws also require pilot
holes in order to screw into place. Always allow a small gap between the gate
and the post when carrying this out.
Tip 7 – Make sure the gate is solid with
three added lengths of timber and use the braced gate to mark the position of
the post holes.
Tip 8 – Use a spade to dig the post holes
so that there is a 50mm clearance gap for the gate to open freely. Use a spirit
level to make sure enough room has been left.
Tip 9 – Hold the gate and posts in position
with the help of some timber props and mix the concrete into the ground. The
surface should be sloped slightly to allow for rainwater to run away from the
wood.
Tip 10 – Allow 48 hours for the concrete to
set and you’re done!
Article provided by Quality Ironmongery; the
complete solution for all of your gate furniture requirements – and a
dependable source for quality products in South Yorkshire for over 20 years.